All restaurants have a purpose. Some are clearly the kinds of places where you might bring your wife or girlfriend, apart from if you’re French in which case you would obviously bring both… at the same time. Some are places where you might prefer to eat on your own. Or maybe that’s just me. And of course where would we be without places to go with family and friends, and which can be depended on, year in, year out, to deliver a reliable level and standard.

It had been a few years since I’d darkened the door of the Mousel’s Cantine, but I rarely forget a good nosh-up and my memories of the Cantine were favourable. If I remembered one thing in particular, it was that the portions were ‘adult’ sized, and so for a recent family gathering, one which included a couple of noted trenchermen, it seemed the natural choice. It is also, of course, something of an institution in Luxembourg, being particularly noteworthy for it’s Luxembourgish specialities. Another point in it’s favour for out-of-towners.

With it’s original wood panelling and bench tables, the interior of the Cantine is reminiscent of a kind of rustic mountain lodge. That impression continues with a quick glance through the menu.The main influence is hearty traditional French cuisine, with your Onion Soup, Cordon bleu, Horse steak, Coquelet, Beef steaks, Lamb cutlets, and Filet Mignon of Pork, to mention but a few from an extensive selection. We however, had our minds made up before setting foot on the premises. We were going Luxembourgish. If there is one emblematic dish for which the Mousel’s Cantine is justifiably famous, it’s the Jarret de Porc Grille, or grilled pork shank. All of the party, bar one, opted for it.

The Mousel’s Cantine, was, in days gone by, the canteen for the workers in the Mousel brewery. We decided to have a Mousel beer in their honour and were directed by a helpful waiter to the rather great, unfiltered, Gezwickelte beier. This particular brew can’t be bought anywhere outside the restaurant.

In short (and I mean in short, I hadn’t even finished my beer), the food started to arrive. After a brief look at the wine list, which isn’t exactly extensive, and continuing the ‘keep it Luxembourgish’ theme, I ignored our Gallic neighbours and plumped for a Luxembourgish 2007 Pinot Noir. (€24). As you probably know, it’s always a bit risky choosing a red wine from around these parts, and I’ve been bitten before, but this time my luck seemed to be in. If you find yourself in the Cantine any day soon, give this surprisingly dark, chilled, oddity, a go. It’s the only one on the list and I think you’ll be very pleasantly surprised.

Only the most foolhardy novice would think about ordering a starter before tackling the Jarret de Porc Grille, and we were no novices. Perusal of the dessert section of the menu is but wishful thinking of the highest order. Many have tried, but few have reached the back pages of the menu. No starters. Straight to the main event.

When the joint arrives, it seems large enough for a small family. The skin of this exceedingly intimidating joint of meat is sealed at high heat to keep the meat moist and juicy, and the joint is then cooked slowly.Special implements are required for operating on such a mass. You need a strong serrated knife to break through the toughened hide and get at the meat. The pork was perfectly cooked, and the complimentary veg, which included fat roast potatoes (really good), saurkraut (a bit too sour for me), and broad beans (well cooked, but a tad bland) all, needless to say, came in generous quantities.

It also goes without saying that, once again, I never made it to the dessert. However, one young Turk in our group did, and ordered the strawberries, which were really fresh, sprinkled lightly with sugar and came in a bowl about the size of a small basin. In this case it’s true to say that there was enough for a small family.

In summary, the Brasserie Mousel’s Cantine is a great place to go with your family, especially if they’re really, really hungry. The food is fresh, honest, straight up, well cooked and well presented. The staff are friendly and professional, and of course multi-lingual, and there’s a healthy crackle and buzz about the place when it fills up.

I’ll be back. I have to. It’s becoming a question of honour to make it all the way through to the dessert.

Restaurant Mousel’s Cantine
TEL: +352 47 01 98
FAX: +352 22 47 66
46, Montée de Clausen
L-1343 LUXEMBOURG
Closed Saturday noon, and all day Sunday.

Brasserie Mousel’s Cantine9.7106